Italy | Religion in Rome

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By Jessica Helfond

Rome is known for being a religious epicenter, given its rich history with the Catholic church over the centuries. Although Rome is widely known for being right near Vatican City, it’s home to more than just the famous St. Peter’s Basilica. Scattered all throughout Rome are numerous other churches, which are full of beautiful artwork and architecture. The churches throughout Rome are often housed in very plain, discreet buildings; however, you walk in and they are anything but simple.

I’ll start with one church our professor took us to: the Santa Maria Sopra Minerva Basilica. It was a plain white building, but when we entered the building, there were immaculately painted walls and ceilings. This church is actually where (most of) Saint Catherine’s body is buried. I say “most of” because her head and one of her pointer fingers are still in Siena, where she lived most of her life. This is because they’re kept as religious relics, which is what allows someone to call a church a basilica. For those of you that don’t know, St. Catherine of Siena had religious visions starting at a very young age. She dictated them to a scribe because she never learned how to write. She also wrote letters to the pope himself, telling him to bring the papacy back to Rome. At this time, the papacy had moved to Avignon, France. It was remarkable that at this time a young girl was telling the pope—one of the most powerful men in the world—what to do. 

Back to talking about the church—it was absolutely beautiful. There were a bunch of smaller chapels inside with gorgeous paintings. Even if you’re not religious, this church is absolutely beautiful to see. There is incredible artwork, architecture, and stained glass windows. Everywhere you look, there’s something interesting to see.

Another church I would recommend going into is the Pantheon. The Pantheon is another one of Rome’s iconic buildings given its rich history. Although it’s famous, I didn’t know the Pantheon was a church until I went inside and saw the altar. The building itself is incredible—it’s one of Rome’s only domed buildings. Not only is the building a dome, but it’s built of concrete, which is so difficult to make structurally sound in a dome shape. Yet another incredible feature of the roof is the hole in the middle of it. In the past, the ancient Romans were able to tell what time it was based on where the sun fell inside the building.

The Pantheon is one of the most architecturally impressive buildings in all of Rome, and is a must see while in the eternal city. As a quick sidenote, there’s a DELICIOUS gelato shop right near the Pantheon. It’s a sicilian gelato shop, which means it’s known for its citrus flavors—the citrus symphony flavor was incredible. I would also recommend their dark chocolate and walnut, ricotta, and honey flavors.

Now, back to churches in Rome (I couldn’t resist mentioning gelato briefly). Going into random churches led me to see beautiful sights that I would have no idea were there otherwise. It’s always a good idea to go explore and see what you can find—you never know what treasures you’ll stumble upon.

Jessica Helfond studied abroad in Rome in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/italian-rome/ 

Italy | Advice for Your Time Abroad

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By Jessica Helfond

My month in Rome was full of unexpected twists and turns. While it all ended up okay, there are a few things I wish I knew before leaving. Here’s some general advice for studying abroad, mixed with some specific tips for studying abroad in Rome.

1. Try new things.

I know what you’re thinking. No kidding, Jessica. Of course you’re going to be trying new things while in a foreign country. Yes, I know it sounds self explanatory! But I do think it’s important to keep in mind. While in a foreign country, you’re constantly surrounded by new, unfamiliar things. Literally everything is different. Because of this unfamiliarity, it can be easy to want to fall back into old habits to find something that feels familiar. Like getting spaghetti every night. Or not going on a spontaneous walk around the city, and instead staying in bed and watching your favorite feel-good show on Netflix. But trust me, keep putting yourself out there and try new things and you won’t regret it. The whole point of going abroad is to have new experiences, and it’s important to keep that in mind throughout your entire trip.

2. Don’t be afraid to be more assertive than normal.

I know, this sounds weird. But this tip is specifically for Rome. Italians are known to be more aggressive. Not in a scary, I’m going to fight you way, but more in a general sense. You have to ask for what you want, especially in a setting like a coffee shop. Waiters aren’t going to be super polite like they are in America (probably because in Italy there are no tips, so they don’t really care), and people aren’t going to wait around for you to make a choice. So you have to know what you want and ask for it, and if you do, you’ll end up getting it.

3. You don’t always need a plan.

Some of my favorite days were spent just wandering around Rome. It’s so fun to explore a new city, and you never know just exactly what you’re going to find. So don’t be afraid to go out for the day and see where it takes you–odds are it’ll be better than you could have imagined.

4. Bring good walking shoes.

I can’t stress this enough. I was told this before I went, but I didn’t realize that Italians walk literally everywhere. I walked over 175 miles in 4 weeks in Rome, so PLEASE bring good walking shoes.

5. Bring extra euros. And then bring a few more.

I made the mistake of not bringing enough euros. I didn’t realize that so many small transactions are based on cash (especially all those two euro gelato purchases). If you run out of euros, you have to find an ATM that most likely has terrible exchange rates and usage fees, so you’ll end up spending way more money than you want. Using cash is ESSENTIAL, so bring more euros than you think you’ll need. Odds are, you’ll use them.

6. Public transportation will be ridiculously crowded. It’s okay.

I can’t even describe how crowded public transit in Rome is. Imagine a bus or metro with so many bodies in it, you are pressed up against people all around you (if you can’t imagine that, think about sardines in a can). It might seem like I’m exaggerating, but I’m really not. There are times when it’s so crowded, the vehicle cannot physically hold another body. As unpleasant as that sounds, it’s not that bad. There’s always air conditioning, and you aren’t really on transit for that long, so it goes by quick. 

7. You will make it through.

This is more of a general study abroad trip. Being in an unfamiliar country can seem overwhelming. Now put the stress of taking classes (that do, in fact, count for your GPA) on top of that, and it can seem like way too much. However, it’s doable. And despite how crazy the classes may seem, there’s plenty of time to have fun, make new friends, and go on new adventures while studying abroad. Studying abroad is a once in a lifetime chance, and it’s something that I truly think everyone should experience.

Jessica Helfond studied abroad in Rome in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/italian-rome/ 

Italy | Exploring all the Pasta-bilities

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By Jessica Helfond

On our first day, our program coordinator told us one VERY important thing to keep in mind while in Rome: food is everything. And let me tell you, he was not kidding. As I’m sure you know, the main food dishes in Italy are pasta and pizza. However, the pizza and pasta in Rome were unlike anything I’d ever tasted before. 

There was a small pizza shop a minute down the road from where classes were held, and it was the best pizza I had in Rome. You were able to have them cut the pizza to the size you wanted, and could choose from a wide variety of toppings. It made for a quick, but delicious lunch in between classes.

As a quick sidenote, I would personally recommend pizza with pesto on it. Pesto was one of my favorite foods I tried throughout my time there. And yes, I’ve had pesto before, but none of it even came close to being as delicious as pesto in Italy. It’s made with olive oil, pine nuts, and a variety of herbs. So simple, yet SO good. Pesto is also delicious on pasta. I had it on gnocchi quite often, which is my favorite type of pasta. They’re technically potato dumplings, but they take the place of pasta in most dishes. They are so filling and absolutely delicious, and can even be mixed with meat or fish, like the shrimp I had with my pesto gnocchi.

The ingredients used for all food dishes are unbelievably fresh. The tomatoes are so sweet, the cheese is fresh, and every pasta you find is handmade. There is no shortage of pasta in Rome; in fact, Rome is known for four specific pasta dishes: cacio e pepe, spaghetti alla carbonara, bucatini all’Amatriciana, and pasta alla gricia. I know that none of those names mean anything to you at this point, so let me break it down. Cacio e pepe translates to cheese and pepper, and that’s literally what the dish is. It’s a long noodle with a cheese based sauce and black pepper. It sounds simple, but it’s delicious nonetheless.  Spaghetti alla carbonara (often known as just carbonara) is another long noodle dish, made with egg, cheese, some type of ham (often pancetta or bacon), and black pepper. Bucatini all’Amatriciana uses long noodles, this time in a tomato sauce with cheese, black pepper, and pork. Finally, pasta alla gricia is a long noodle with cheese, pork, and pepper. As you can tell, each dish is fairly similar in ingredients; however, the slight variations make for huge differences in flavor. Each dish is delicious, and I would recommend trying each of them to get the full experience of Roman cuisine.

Finally (although I suppose I should be saying firstly), I come to antipasto, or appetizers. My two favorite appetizers were bruschetta and ham with melon (yes, you heard me right). Bruschetta is fresh tomatoes, often mixed with olive oil and herbs on top of toasted bread. Each place you go does their bruschetta slightly differently, so it’s fun to go try all different types. There’s also bruschetta with other types of toppings, like ham and cheese, which I would also recommend trying. And last, but by no means least: ham and melon. I know, the combination sounds so odd. I thought so too when I first heard it. But try it, and believe me, you’ll think the combination is absolutely genius. The sweetness of the cantaloupe melon combined with the saltiness of the prosciutto ham go together so perfectly, it’s unbelievable. Both of these appetizers are so simple, yet are some of the most delicious food I had while in Rome.

When in Rome, I encourage you to go out of your comfort zone and try the local cuisine. It is some of the best food I have ever tasted; you will never be disappointed with a meal. And remember: Food. Is. Everything.

Jessica Helfond studied abroad in Rome in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/italian-rome/ 

Italy | Roaming Around the Eternal City

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By Jessica Helfond

Our first day in Rome. Slight jetlag, slight nervousness, and extreme excitement was in the air. We met at our apartment building in the morning with our program director and professors and they took us to the study center where classes were held so we would know how to get there. We got on the tram, took it 7 stops, and then walked through buildings until we got to the study center. There was even a giant open air market near the study center that had super fresh fruits and vegetables, along with a wide variety of pastas and olive oils. It was so cool to walk through and see all the fresh Italian cuisine.

Once we got to the study center, we had a short orientation about program logistics. Essentially, they told us who to contact if we had any issues or questions and gave us a rundown of everything we would be doing throughout the program.

After our orientation, we all walked to a nearby restaurant called Fattoincasa. And let me tell you, we were not prepared for the meal we were about to have. They came out with 5 rounds of appetizers. JUST APPETIZERS! They started with bruschetta, then went to bread rolls with eggplant meatballs and tomato sauce, then prosciutto and mozzarella, bean soup, and fried zucchini. After that, they finally served us pasta. We could choose from 4 different pasta dishes, and I chose penne pasta with a basic tomato and basil sauce. But let me tell you, the taste was anything but basic. All of lunch was so delicious, and we knew if that was what our first taste of Italian cuisine was like, we were in for a MAJOR treat throughout the rest of our month.

After we were done with lunch, we were able to do whatever we wanted for the rest of the day. So, naturally, we roamed around Rome for the rest of the day. We started walking and ended up in a giant piazza (which we later found out was called Piazza Navona). There was a huge fountain with an obelisk in the center of the piazza, along with a giant building with beautiful architecture. At this point, we had been walking for a while and it was very hot, so naturally, we had to stop for gelato. We stopped at what was supposedly one of the original gelato shops in Rome called Giolitti, and let me tell you, we were NOT prepared for how good it was. I got caramel gelato that, in hindsight, was one of the best gelato flavors I had while in Rome. It was so creamy and cool on a hot day and was exactly what we needed.

After gelato, we wandered further and eventually ended up at the Spanish Steps. We walked all the way up to the church at the top and were able to admire the view. After that, we wandered around some more, before eventually taking the tram back to our apartments. And that concluded our first day in Rome. There was so much excitement in the air about being able to explore a new city and try new foods, and it was a great first day of what proved to be an even greater month.

Jessica Helfond studied abroad in Rome in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/italian-rome/ 

Italy | Acing Academics Abroad

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By Jessica Helfond

A big portion of studying abroad is the actual “studying” part. I took 9 units in 4 weeks, and while it was challenging, taking these classes abroad was very efficient and enriching. 

During our month in Rome, we could take 2 out of the 3 following courses:

  1. Italian 1: Beginning Elementary Italian (4 units)
  2. Italian 42A: Saints and Sinners in Early Modern Italy (5 units)
  3. Italian 191: Medieval and Renaissance Italy in Pop Culture (4 units)

We could also enroll in Italian 199, which was an additional 4 unit class on a research topic of your choosing. Italian 1 met from 9:30am-12pm Monday-Thursday, Italian 42A had class from 2-4pm on Monday and Wednesday, and Italian 191 had class from 2-4pm on Tuesday and Thursday. Classes were held in the ACCENT Study Center, which was about 30 minutes away from our apartments. To get to class, we took the metro for 7 stops, and then walked for 10-15 minutes to get to the study center. 

The study center was two stories that were fully equipped with air conditioning. On one floor, there were classrooms that could fit around 25 students, bathrooms, a silent library for studying, and a faculty lounge for office hours. Upstairs, there was the student lounge (equipped with a microwave and refrigerator), a computer lounge, and desks to study or complete work at. There was also fast wifi and a printer to use in the study center.

I took Italian 1 to get started on my language requirement and Italian 42A to fulfill my historical analysis GE. I’m going to be honest. Italian 1 was VERY fast paced. After Week 1, we had a quiz. After week 2, a midterm. After Week 3 we had another quiz, and after Week 4 we had our final exam. We took all of the quizzes and exams online with an online system that monitored our computers and surrounding environment. However, taking them online meant we were able to take them whenever we wanted before the deadline (which was usually Sunday evening). This meant we could study as much as we wanted before taking the exams, and take them whenever we felt we were ready.

Although the class was very fast paced, it was very possible to succeed in. Our TA did an amazing job of teaching us the most essential concepts during class, and then giving us homework to reenforce the concepts. As long as you asked questions on what you were confused on, did the homework, and studied before the exams, you were able to succeed in the class. Besides learning the Italian language, we also learned about Italian culture. We played fun games, and on our last day of class, our TA brought a variety of sicilian cannolis for us to try.

Italian 42A consisted of learning a lot about the history of Rome, which meant a lot about the history of religion in Italy. The best part of the class was actually being able to visit locations that we talked about in class. For example, we actually got to go see the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City instead of just looking at pictures of it in class.

Although taking the classes in a month abroad was very fast paced, actually being able to take them in Rome made them so much more enriching. It was way easier being able to learn a language while being immersed in a country that speaks it, and actually visiting locations we learned about in history class made it way easier to put meaning to the information we were learning. I loved taking these classes abroad, and I would recommend it to anyone that wants to fulfill requirements in a more enriching, fun way.

Jessica Helfond studied abroad in Rome in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/italian-rome/ 

Peru | Cusco and the Sacred Valley

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BY MIKA NAGAMOTO

Peru is an incredibly diverse country with endless adventures and destinations for travel. After my travel study program, I was eager to explore the areas beyond Lima. My family decided to fly out to meet me after my program and together we spent two weeks exploring Cusco, The Sacred Valley, and Machu Picchu. It was an unforgettable journey.

Cusco

The day after my program ended, I took an hour-long flight to Cusco where I met up with my family. Cusco has a whomping elevation of 11,152 feet so we wanted to make sure we were well acclimated before starting our adventures. We spent the first two days acclimating by exploring the many restaurants and museums in the historical capital of the Inca.

We visited several impressive colonial churches such as the Catedral de Cusco, Iglesia de San Blas, and the Compañia de Jesús. Entrance fees for these churches were about 10 soles for adults and 5 soles for students with a university ID. To learn more about the origins of the Incas we went to the Museo de Arte Precolombino. The “MAP” has several galleries of sculptures, textiles, metal-work, and artifacts from 3000 years of Andean art. My favorite destination in Cusco was Sacsayhuamán (spelled various ways). These are ruins located in the mountainous outskirts of the city. We explored the remarkable religious sites, enjoyed the open views of Cusco, and even played on the Inca slides made out of unique rock formations. Entrance to these ruins is around 70 soles and many companies offer transportation and tours in English. It is also only a two-kilometer hike to get to the ruins from Cusco.

We were overwhelmed by how incredible the food in Cusco is. For breakfast we loved Qura (a small coffee shop with the best avocado toast), Japeita Coffee Break (a locally owned coffee shop with great empanadas) and Monkey Café (the best coffee we had in Peru). For lunch and dinner, we went to Pachapapa (a cozy place for traditional Peruvian dishes), Limo (Japanese-Peruvian fusion with great cebiche), MAP Café (located in the Museo de Arte Precolombino, elegant but pricey food), and Chicha (Peruvian fusion with great drinks). While these were some of the nicest restaurants in Peru they were all pretty reasonably priced especially for the quality of food. We enjoyed every meal immensely and wish we had more time to visit many other great restaurants.

Sacred Valley

After exploring the city of Cusco we spent a couple of days visiting the Sacred Valley. There is an overwhelming amount of options when it comes to tour companies that you can use to visit Cusco and neighboring areas. We decided on the Sam Travel tour company because of their emphasis on fair-pay and using local guides. Our tour guide picked us up in a van and we spent the day driving to various locations around the Sacred Valley.

We visited the Santuario Animal de Ccochahuasi: an animal sanctuary where condors, spectacled bears, andean wild cats, andean geese, alpacas, and vicuñas find shelter and rehabilitation.Tours are given in both English and Spanish and visitors get a chance to have close interactions with the animals living there. This sanctuary also sells beautiful textiles made by local communities nearby.]

Next, we went to the Salinas de Maras. These are salt evaporated ponds where local families mine minerals from the streams flowing from the Andeas Mountains. It’s rather incredible how uniquely beautiful these mines are. The salt harvested from the Salinas de Maras is full of flavor and sold by the families for cooking and cosmetic uses.

Near the salt mines is the Moray Ruins. This fascinating archeological location is the site of agricultural experimentation conducted by the Inca. These concentric terraces of varying elevations created microclimates where farmers tested the ideal temperatures and elevations for different types of potatoes, corn, and other vegetables. Many researchers believe that the experiments conducted in these terraces led to the large varieties of Peruvian potatoes.

Our final destination in the Sacred Valley was the Ollantaytambo Ruins. These ruins were created by the Inca ruler Pachacuti as a ceremonial center for the surrounding town. Visitors can explore the terraces, temples, and storehouses built by the Inca in the mid-15th century. The town of Ollantaytambo also has a train station that many tourists use to transport to Machu Picchu. My family and I stayed in a hotel near the train station to prepare for our trip to the infamous Machu Picchu.

Mika Nagamoto studied abroad in Lima and Iquitos, Peru, in summer 2018: https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalHealth-Lima/

Peru | Revealing Disparities in the City of Pampas

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BY MIKA NAGAMOTO

A unique aspect of this abroad program is the opportunity to be in the field where healthcare systems are implemented. The field of global health encompasses a wide range of different focuses ranging from infectious diseases, to environmental impacts on health, to chronic non-infectious diseases, and many other issues that both directly and indirectly affect human health. One commonality amongst all of these global health focuses is the movement towards creating accessible and equal healthcare on a global scale. In order to make positive changes it’s necessary to go to the local area that is most impacted by the health issue of interest.

Starting in the 1980’s, Peru experienced internal terrorism sparked by the communist party in Peru called the “Sendero Luminoso” (the Shining Path). The Sendero Luminoso used guerilla warfare to create internal conflict, particularly in Andeas Highlands. Pampas is a community in the Lima region that was created due to mass migration of Peruvians in the highlands trying to escape the violence created by the conflict between Sendero Luminoso and the government of Peru. Although the internal conflict ended in the early 1990’s, the effects of violence and trauma are still prevalent in areas throughout Peru.

Visiting Pampas revealed the hindering of development created by internal conflict, structural violence, and poverty. After departing from our comfortable and safe hotel in Miraflores, seeing Pampas was a stark comparison and a humbling experience. This community was formed on land that had no infrastructure or public services such as water, electricity, or plumbing. In order to receive these basic necessities, the community had to come together, gather their funds, and advocate for their own needs. Shadows of past violence linger in the areas left un-built due to the concern that land mines may have been left over by the Sendero Luminoso.

Community members, non-governmental organizations, and healthcare centers, are all working towards providing sufficient and accessible healthcare for the community. Visiting health posts and health centers revealed the high demand for healthcare and the limited resources that are available. The healthcare centers are dedicated to providing care for all those in need regardless of whether or not they are able to afford it. However, long lines and limited hours serve as barriers to reach all of the individuals that seek healthcare.

Wealthier neighborhoods in Lima choose to go to private health centers where they receive optimal care and have the choice of when they go into the clinic. However, the majority of the population in Lima lives in similar neighborhoods as Pampas where poverty, a history of violence, environmental pollution, and limited healthcare create obstacles for the community’s quality of life.

Pampas is just one of many examples in which disparities are created by a cycle of structural violence and poverty. Walking through the streets of Pampas created a vivid and lastly effect on my understanding of global health. Reading about statistics and numbers may allow students to scrape the surface of understanding communities that experience disparities. Yet, the numbers do not capture the depth and complexities of these local contexts. This trip to Pampas puts my own privilege into perspective and gave me important insights into the challenges that public health and healthcare workers face.

The healthcare workers and community leaders in Pampas are passionate and driven to create change within their community, to empower their neighbors, and provide the healthcare that they deserve as a basic human right. I am thankful for the opportunity to have met some of these influential actors and to view the positive changes they are fighting for.

Mika Nagamoto studied abroad in Lima and Iquitos, Peru, in summer 2018: https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalHealth-Lima/

Peru | Peru’s Unique Cuisine

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BY MIKA NAGAMOTO

There is no denying that Peru has some of the most incredible food in the world. Every restaurant you pass by in Lima radiates incredible aromas of fresh cooked food. My friends and I made it our mission to try all of the best food in the area. As we began to explore the plethora of restaurants nearby, we noticed that the food in Peru is not only delicious but also incredibly diverse.

Ceviche

We decided to start out by trying some of the dishes that Peru is famous for. Ceviche (sometimes spelled “cebiche”) was first created in Peru and continues to be served on almost every corner in Lima. The traditional dish is usually made with whitefish, Peruvian yellow corn, ají peppers, thinly sliced onion, and lime juice. For our first taste of ceviche we decided to go to Punto Azul, a seafood restaurant located in Miraflores. I was amazed by how fresh the fish tasted and how well all of the strong flavors worked together. Some restaurants also make ceviche with various types of fish, peppers, and unique sauces. One of the “challenges” I faced in Lima was forcing myself to try other food because the ceviche is simply too good.

Menús

In Peru, most people choose to eat a large lunch and a much smaller dinner. For this reason many restaurants have special “menús” during lunchtime. These lunchtime bargains can be as cheap as 10 soles (about $3) and include an appetizer, a main course, and a drink. Many restaurants will serve ceviche as an option for your appetizer and this is certainly the best deal you can find in Peru for fresh and delicious fish.

Chifa

Chifa restaurants are extremely common and popular all around Lima. This unique cuisine combines the flavors of Chinese and Peruvian food. Common menu items include Arroz Chaufa (Cantonese-Peruvian style fried rice), Pollo Enrollado (chicken rolled in fried crust), Tallarin Saltado (Cantonese-Peruvian style Chow Mein), and Chicharron de Gallin (simmered lemon chicken). In order to try the best Chifa in Lima, my friends and I journeyed to Chifa Union in Barranco. Twelve of us from the program hopped on the metro to Barranco with excitement and empty stomachs. After asking our waiter what he suggested, we ordered six different large dishes and shared the food family style so we could all try as much as possible. My personal favorite was the Tallarin Saltado and the Pollo Enrollado. Both of these dishes had rich flavors, tender meat, and crisp vegetables. The portions here were huge and we left the restaurant with several to-go bags that we happily ate the next day for lunch.

Tripe

I have always been an adventurous eater and love to try new foods as much as possible. Often when my friends and I go to a new restaurant we will order whatever the waiter suggests. While exploring the restaurants in Lima, this often meant that we had little idea what we were eating until we later looked up the ingredients from the dish. After class one day, my friend and I found a place that had a Menú so we decided to try it out. Like most meals, we asked the waiter what her favorite dish was and she suggested the “Cau Cau”. Neither my friend nor I knew what was in this dish but we decided to try it out. When we got our meal, the dish appeared to be some sort of meat with potatoes and grilled vegetables. The meat however was an extremely unique texture resembling something like raw octopus only more jelly-like. After enjoying our meal, we later looked up the dish and found out that the meat was actually the lining of a cow stomach. Knowing this may have changed our perspective of the dish but also made us very excited to try other unique food in Peru.

Mika Nagamoto studied abroad in Lima and Iquitos, Peru, in summer 2018: https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalHealth-Lima/

Peru | Iquitos: Overcoming Health Barriers in River Communities

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Through my program, I had the very unique opportunity of traveling to Iquitos: a large city near the Amazon River that is completely inaccessible by car. This trip was designed to give us insight into the healthcare systems of unique communities where location, cultural differences, and environmental factors create disparities to healthcare access

When I got off of the plane at the Iquitos airport, I immediately felt a wave of heat and humidity spread across my face. We were in a completely different environment than Lima and I was very eager to learn more about the communities lining the Amazon River. Walking through the streets on the way to our hotel, we passed through bustling streets of vendors selling delicious fruits and frozen treats to ward off the hot, summer day. Motor taxis and motorcycles filled the streets and endless rows of fresh fish lined the side-walk, ready to be bought after the morning catch.

Researching Traditional Healing Methods

For our first excursion into Iquitos, we visited an EsSalud Research Center for traditional medicine to learn how plant and herb healing are being used for medical and scientific advancements. We walked through the botanical gardens of this center and learned about dozens of unique plants and the lengthy list of positive effects each plant has for health and healing.

Many of these plants and herbs we had seen being sold in the markets in Iquitos where these plants are used regularly by local Peruvians. An agricultural engineer from the center let us smell and taste many of these plants that most of us had never even heard of. He let us taste mint that can be used as a sweetener for diabetics, and a spicy flower that made your lips tingle and is used as a numbing cream for both internal and external uses. We smelled all sorts of different spices that can have medical effects on cardiovascular diseases, diarrhea, and even cancer. Throughout the tour the agro-engineer also explained how many of these plants are researched, tested, and produced in commercial packaging to be sold in pharmacies.

This unique experience revealed the collaboration of traditional practices and modern research as a form of creating new and accessible treatments and preventative medicines. Before we left the center, the agro-engineer emphasized that every modern medical advancement, once originated from research done on plants. I was amazed to see how nature is full of miraculous surprises and there’s no denying that there are still many possible treatments and cures to be discovered.

Tele-Medicina at the Ministry of Health

The ministry of health provides care for approximately 70% of the Peruvian population. In Iquitos, a ministry of health hospital is the designated treatment center for the entire Loreto Region which has a population of almost a million people. This single healthcare center provides care for around 2,500 people a day. Beyond what the numbers say, during my trip to Iquitos, it became very apparent to me that healthcare access and treatment are very limited. Our program had the opportunity to visit the Ministry of Health Hospital in Iquitos and we learned about many ways that these healthcare providers are working tirelessly to provide quality healthcare to as many people as possible.

When we arrived at the hospital we were introduced to the Director of Public Relations. However, this job title certainly does not encompass the many tasks that this man takes one to try to constantly help the people of Iquitos. He began with a tour that showed us all of the various units within the hospital offering a wide range of care options from neonatal care, to burn treatment, to dialysis, and psychiatric treatment. Along the way we began to see the improvements and reconstruction that this hospital was taking on. New sections of the building had recently been renovated to allow for more advanced care for a larger population of patients.

We visited the Tele-Medicina office were the hospital has implemented video and telephone technology as a means to diagnose, consult, and treat patients in remote areas. Additionally, doctors from Lima and around the world can also communicate with health posts and hospitals surrounding the Amazon river. Many families must journey up to 5 days to reach this hospital. Because of the expenses and length of these journeys, sickness has often progressed very severely by the time individuals will make the journey to the hospital. For this reason, the Tele-Medicina intervention is used to try to diagnose patients earlier and lessen the need for traveling such far distances.

Unfortunately, however, many patients will not be able to receive all of their care in Iquitos and so for further treatment they have to fly out to Lima. The Director of Public Relations explained to us the many difficult decisions that families must make when faced with the cost of travel and having to separate families to receive care. The director that we spoke to was one of the many hidden advocates for patients that are unable to receive care for reasons beyond their control. Limited funding and poverty lead patients stranded as they have no way of paying for the treatment that they need. The director that we met works constantly with social workers, NGO’s, community members, or individual donors to try to pull together the funds to help patients in his hospital.

This hospital served as the only form of healthcare for a far larger population than the resources could provide for. Furthermore, patients must face difficult travels and expensive care while battling illness and disease. With persistent efforts to innovate this hospital and advocate for patients, I was inspired to see the ways that these healthcare workers dedicated their energy towards looking out for their patients in Iquitos.

Isolated Health Posts in the Amazon Rainforest

Iquitos is surrounded by dozens of small, isolated communities that utilize the resources from the river and rainforest in their daily lives. These communities are often very remote and use small health posts as their only access to healthcare. For our final visit in Iquitos, our program journeyed to one of these health posts in the rainforest.

All of the students from my program huddled into long wooden boats as we weaved along the Amazon River passing fisherman as they dove into the water with large nets and local families as they washed their clothes and cooked by the river. We arrived at a community where rice, plantains, and pineapples farms surrounded the outskirts of the town. Immediately we were greeted by one of a nurses from the health post. This nurse, a midwife, and a medical technician were the only staff that served this community and 14 other villages in nearby areas. It was a very eye-opening experience to hear about the countless barriers this facility has to overcome to provide the best possible care they can manage under their given circumstances.

Limited supplies, delayed governmental funding, complicated local customs, and difficulties in reaching isolated communities were merely some of the many different aspects that these workers had to take into account. Many of the community members never see a doctor throughout their lives and immunization levels for children are a constant concern. Through home visits and education this health post has worked on increasing immunization rates however there are far more isolated communities that are unreached by the limited resources of health posts such as the one we visited.

This community faces issues of malnutrition, stunting, maternal morbidity, tuberculosis, diarrheal diseases, and adolescent pregnancy. I was genuinely impressed to find that despite this long list of health concerns and barriers the healthcare workers at this post were extremely dedicated and driven to continue to improve the health of the community they served. Not only were they helping their patients with medical treatment, but they also worked to create a pleasant environment where community members could seek help and care.

It is very difficult to explain the disparities and barriers that these river communities face in accessing healthcare. With such unique environmental factors, economic restraints, and limited resources, I could feel the great need for better healthcare accessibility. The healthcare workers left a genuine impact on me as I saw the relentless efforts that they put forth to improve the quality of life in these communities. Every healthcare center that we visited in Iquitos was working towards broadening their scope of care, no matter how difficult that may be.

Mika Nagamoto studied abroad in Lima and Iquitos, Peru, in summer 2018: https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalHealth-Lima/

Peru | Floating City of Belén

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BY MIKA NAGAMOTO

During our time visiting the Amazon Region of Peru we had many very memorable excursions that were unlike anything else in Peru. Iquitos is a city full of life, culture, unique gastronomy, and bountiful wildlife. Every day we had a new and exciting outing with our professors giving us the opportunity to explore the many unbelievable sights.

The Floating City

The floating city of Belén is one of the most extraordinary places in Peru. When we first arrived in Belén, it appeared to be just like every other neighborhood in Iquitos. Our guide, however, explained to us that during the rainy season in Iquitos this entire neighborhood is submerged in water. During this time, water levels raise up to the second story of every house. To accommodate for these extreme weather changes, families then move their belongings from the first floor to the second floor of their houses. Families who live closer to the river however have accommodated in a different way by building houses that actually float on the water. Our group had the chance to tour this community on wooden boats with local guides who told us about their experiences growing up next to the Amazon River. Daily life in this community is intertwined with the many resources that the river has to offer. Fishing provides the main source of food and jobs, boats serve as school buses for children and taxis for parents on their way to work, and families wash their clothes just outside of their floating houses. This beautiful city was full of life and energy surrounding the powerful Amazon River and our group was lucky enough to learn about such a unique location.

Belén Market

Only a couple blocks away from the river edge lies the bustling Belén Market. This market is a cluster of dozens of streets lined with stands stacked high with a vast assortment of meats, drinks, fruits, medicine, herbs, clothing, and many goods our group had never heard of. Our local guides walked us through the tight and busy streets as we passed giant paiche fish caught that morning, buckets of edible jungle grubs, amazon fruits like camu camu, aguaje, maracuya, and a rows and rows of traditional medicines that are made for every sort of ailment imaginable. The people who work in this market wake up as early as 3:00am to begin setting up their stands. Shoppers arrive soon after to buy fresh meats and ingredients for the day. The Belén Market is buzzing with people from all around Iquitos who travel to this area just to buy the many goods provided along these streets. The sights, smells, and tastes of Belén are rich with the culture and life of the Amazon River.

Mika Nagamoto studied abroad in Lima and Iquitos, Peru, in summer 2018: https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalHealth-Lima/