New York | Meeting with Ambassadors

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By Kyra Baffo

After completing the NYC Global Governance Program, I finally get to say that I have met a diplomat. We met with the Finnish Ambassador to the UN, Ambassador Salovaara, and Ambassador Ham who represented South Korea. Both Ambassadors offered unique and sometimes overly diplomatic, perspectives on their country’s role in the foreign diplomacy. We first met with Ambassador Salavaara at the Finnish Mission which was conveniently located directly across from UN Headquarters. Upon entering the conference room, we were greeted by state of the art views of NYC skyscrapers.

Ambassador Salavaara discussed topics ranging from Angry Birds and Nokia (which originated in Finland) to Brexit and immigration. He highlighted aspects of Finland that many of us don’t know; turns out, Finland is not geographically gifted (it borders Russia and had to continuously defend itself from Russian invasion), nor is it abundant in natural resources. As a result, Salavaara argued that the county has resorted to widespread investment in their own human capital. Finland’s education system is one of the best in the world, and they have created a comparative advantage in the tech industry. Salovaara highlighted that a teaching profession in Finland is incredibly lucrative, and competitive.

One can’t help but wonder what such an investment in the U.S would look like! Food for thought. Salovaara also touched the important of the EU, and stated that it is a “comprehensive cooperation machine”, one that once represented stability, prosperity, and security. He really seemed to believe that the EU is critical, and the integration of Europe is the only way true economic prosperity is achievable. It was definitely interesting to hear this perspective during a time when Brexit is looming and resurgent nationalism has dispersed throughout Europe. He positioned Finland as a country that sees cooperation as very fundamental to Europe’s prosperity and identity.

Our visit with Ambassador Ham at the Republic of Korea mission was hugely anticipated and exciting for our cohort. President Trump had just made history as the first U.S president to step on North Korean soil, and we were eager to ask the ambassador about his position on U.S-Korean relations- and of course, China. First, pro-tip when visiting the the Korean mission: get there early! The mission is beautifully designed and has amazing artwork and decor that you we definitely want to take a look at.

The biggest takeaway from Ambassador Ham was that South Korea’s main role on the peninsula is to act as a facilitator, supporter, and initiator. He highlighted that Korea is the only nation surrounded by 4 great powers (the U.S, China, Russia, and Japan) and therefore, foreign diplomacy is hugely important for their economic and national security. Ham argued that Korea could act as somewhat of mediator between the Global North and Global South; this is largely because South Korea itself went from a poor agrarian economy to a globalized and prosperous democracy in a single generation- something Ambassador Ham said he was very proud of. Ultimately, the greatest takeaway was that both ambassadors represent countries that are more or less restricted in their scope and power, but use the tools they have to promote cooperation and balance.

Kyra studied abroad in New York in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-NewYork

New York | Little Italy, Chinatown, & Governor’s Island

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By Kyra Baffo

Little Italy and Chinatown are conveniently located right next to each other, and offer incredible options if you are in the mood for Italian or Asian cuisine. We got here via the subway (just hopped on the D line from Washington Square Station and go off at Grand Street Station). We kicked off our evening in Chinatown, we feasted on sushi and chicken teriyaki before making our way up north to Little Italy. There are literally endless places to eat, so it might be helpful to come with a few ideas in mind on what you want to try. Or you can take the spontaneous route and find something along the way that looks tasty. A little warning about Little Italy, you will be approached by tons of restaurant owners offering you delicious pasta, pizza, and appetizers. And perhaps discounted wine in order to convince you and your friends to eat at their restaurant. Don’t be fooled! Maybe I am a little pessimistic, considering a group of friends walked into one of the restaurants only to find that the menu they were shown outside of the restaurant had double the prices once they sat down! As you can see, you definitely want to watch out for petty scams like that- as this is a very touristy area of the city. There a dozens of dessert stations, that serve world class cannolis and cakes. If you’re looking to find a few discounted gifts to bring back home to your family then this is the place to shop. There are tons of gift stores around this area that sell NYC paraphernalia and clothing. All in all, Little Italy and Chinatown are must dos on your NYC itinerary. Come on an empty stomach and maybe a few restaurant ideas in mind beforehand and you will have a great experience.

Little Italy and Chinatown are conveniently located right next to each other, and offer incredible options if you are in the mood for Italian or Asian cuisine. We got here via the subway (just hopped on the D line from Washington Square Station and go off at Grand Street Station). We kicked off our evening in Chinatown, we feasted on sushi and chicken teriyaki before making our way up north to Little Italy. There are literally endless places to eat, so it might be helpful to come with a few ideas in mind on what you want to try. Or you can take the spontaneous route and find something along the way that looks tasty. A little warning about Little Italy, you will be approached by tons of restaurant owners offering you delicious pasta, pizza, and appetizers. And perhaps discounted wine in order to convince you and your friends to eat at their restaurant.

Don’t be fooled! Maybe I am a little pessimistic, considering a group of friends walked into one of the restaurants only to find that the menu they were shown outside of the restaurant had double the prices once they sat down! As you can see, you definitely want to watch out for petty scams like that- as this is a very touristy area of the city. There a dozens of dessert stations, that serve world class cannolis and cakes. If you’re looking to find a few discounted gifts to bring back home to your family then this is the place to shop. There are tons of gift stores around this area that sell NYC paraphernalia and clothing. All in all, Little Italy and Chinatown are must dos on your NYC itinerary. Come on an empty stomach and maybe a few restaurant ideas in mind beforehand and you will have a great experience.

Govna’s Island (Governor’s Island)- truly a land of dreams. Just for a little background, the island is just south of Manhattan, accessible via a $2 ferry, and its existence dates all the way back to the American Revolution. Today, the island mostly serves as a day-trip destination and offers visitors a number of interesting recreational activities. The catch, however, is that you need to make sure you check what activities you are interested in doing before you make the trek. My group and I were interested in ziplining, kayaking, and riding bikes on the island, only to find out that nearly every outdoor activity was reserved for the weekend (we were there on Wednesday). We ended up renting Surreys, which are basically group bicycles, while some others rented their own personal bikes. If you are going with a large group then I would definitely recommend renting Surreys, as they make it cost efficient for everyone and allow you up to 45 minutes to ride around the island. If you end up going on a weekend, you will find plenty more activities to try out. This island is pretty small, but manages to host a number of events. Just to name a few- they have gardening, museums, parks and hammocking areas, a really interest junkyard playground, and festivals. There is not many shady areas around the island, so please do not forget sunscreen and/or a parasol when you visit. Have fun! ?

Kyra studied abroad in New York in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-NewYork

New York | World Pride in NYC

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By Kyra Baffo

Our NYU dorms were in a prime location for the World Pride Parade (Also happens to be our very first weekend in the city.) World Pride experience began earlier in the week with a trans rights protest that passed right in front of Lipton Hall, though festivities were coordinated for the entire month of June. Performers held live events in the preceding nights that brought out hundreds of locals and students excited to celebrate Pride and the 50th anniversary of the Stone Wall Riots. This was my first Pride event, and considering it was World Pride, I had high expectations. And let me tell you- it did not disappoint.

Millions of people traveled to the city in light of the celebration. Pride Flags decorated the city, and Greenwich Village felt like the central hub for Pride parades, performances, and festivities. The Pride March originated in Madison Square Park and followed a U shape through the city; it brushed just north of our dorms at Lipton, passed the historical Stone Wall Inn and culminated at 23rd street. There were food trucks offering decadent foods (I enjoyed a delicious lobster quesadilla and homemade whoopie pie), drag queens, auctions, and a variety of vendors.

Unfortunately, participating in the march itself was closed off to most people. We spent most of our time spectating from the sidelines and navigating through massive crowds. We stopped for 99 cent pizza, a must do if you find yourself in the village. The pizza was seriously the best pizza I had in New York City, and it was only 99 cents! It was interesting to see all of the corporate sponsors making their debut on Pride Floats, from T-mobile to JP Morgan, I couldn’t help but notice how commercialized the Pride had seem to become or maybe- how global the movement has become.

Is this a good thing? Or does it take away from fundamental message of Pride? As Global Studies majors, maybe it is inevitable that we would question this. We spoke with activists celebrating at the Stonewall Inn who emphasized their discomforts and/or appreciations with the police force at Pride, which draws from a long and violent history between law enforcement and members of the lgbtq community. For some people I spoke with, the police did not have a place at the parades at all. For others, it represented the progress and accomplishments that the movement has achieved.

Attending the Parade was an amazing opportunity to learn about the varying perspectives and ideas about the movement today. Despite the official conclusion of the Parade, the streets were full of people, confetti, and flags well into the night. I spent the latter part of the evening in Christopher Park, a lively hub located directly in front of the Stonewall Inn and home of the Gay Liberation Monument; performers and activists stayed well into the night and were a great source of fun and entertainment. Spending Pride in NYC was an unforgettable experience and one I am glad I got to experience with my fellow Global Studies peers.

Kyra studied abroad in New York in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-NewYork

New York | Council on Foreign Relations

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By Kyra Baffo

What do you envision when you dream of your ideal workplace? A cool office space? Vending machines? Or bean bag chairs? What about a majestic 20th century townhouse? Well for those lucky enough to obtain employment at the Council on Foreign Relations, their workplace resembles an elegant ballroom with beautiful marble floors and historic furnishings. The Council on Foreign Relations is nestled on East 68th Street, just blocks away from Central Park and appears rather inconspicuous from the outside.

If you are unfamiliar with the organization’s history, CFR is a nonpartisan membership based foreign affairs think tank founded after the failings of any substantial peace dealings falling World War I. The founders wanted to create a platform for the discussion and inquiry in global relations. You are immediately greeted by security upon entrance and swept away into Peterson Hall, a spacious conference room featuring copies of the latest Foreign Affairs magazine, and water glasses. We felt like royalty. We met with Adam Segal, the Ira. A Lipman Chair in Emerging Technologies and National Security and Director of the Digital and Cyberspace Program at the Council. Segal also happens to be a renowned expert on China, and spent most of his discussion with us highlighting the increased tensions and growing interdependence of China and the U.S. He covered everything from ‘good’ hacking vs. ‘bad’ hacking, trade, and cyber security issues.

My greatest takeaways from Segal were in the realm of the evolving relationship between the U.S and China. As China becomes an increasingly dominant economic player in the world, the U.S will be in the best position to combat this by investing in our own growth- As opposed to slapping tariffs on China and being skeptical towards Chinese students studying in America. His argument speaks volumes within the current political climate we live in, and honestly makes a lot of sense. Segal underscored an important talking point for a number of law makers and advocates who believe that America’s best defense resides in our own human capital and continued innovation.

Following Segal’s presentation, we were given additional information on internship opportunities at CFR. For those of you who are interested in potential internships with the organization, here are the biggest takeaways: Internships are based in either New York City or Washington D.C (Unfortunately for us UCLA students, these internships are offered on a semester basis), they are unpaid, and require (16-20 hours) per week of commitment. For those from diverse backgrounds CFR offers the Robina Franklin Williams internship program which pays at an hourly rate.

The perks of interning with them are hard to overstate; professional development and networking opportunities, experience working on critical policy issues at one of the most prestigious foreign affairs think tanks in the world! It was clear by the end of our excursion most students in our program had decided that they could imagine a future career at this premier organization. CFR was definitely one of my favorite excursions on the program.

Kyra studied abroad in New York in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-NewYork

New York | Exploring the City: NYC’s Highline

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By Kyra Baffo

What happens when you revive an abandoned railroad line spanning across the city into a beautifully crafted urban park? I’m sure you can guess. New York City’s highline park showcases the unique designs of modern urban architecture and ecological revival. The highline spans 1.45 miles, beginning in the Lower West side and extending through 34th street, with a number of entrances you can choose from (we walked from campus to Washington st.). The route is designed to make visitors feel immersed in the city, offering 360 views of iconic NYC buildings and the Hudson river. The park is covered in beautiful plants and greenery, features art work from local vendors and food (which includes homemade papaya popsicles (yum!), asian buns, hotdogs, and ice cream), performances, and benches if you just want to sit and embrace the city.

My friends and I enjoyed the stroll, often stopping to enjoy the creative art on display or take a guess at what part of the city we were in.  The Highline, in manys ways, is so much more than a city park. It is a community center, public space, ecological haven, and revived industrial good. The Railroad was originally built in the early 1900s in response to the high death rates of pedestrians getting hit by trains on street level tracks. However, by the 1970s the rise in trucking led to a decline in usage. There were immediate calls for the railroads demolition, but thanks to advocates and conversancy groups, the high line was preserved and transformed into one of the largest attractions in the city.

In a highly condensed place like New York, finding lively, yet calming public spaces is a rarity. But the city does a great job of utilizing the space it does have to foster community engagement and creativity. The same could be said for Washington Square Park, the “quad” for NYU students who lack a centralized campus. The park, like the Highline, has a life of its own and offers visitors a unique space within the hustle and bustle of the city to relax or explore the creative artistic scenery. Musicians regularly perform; vendors sell food and anti Trump merchandise; others take a dive in the fountain in the center of the park.

Somehow students manage to get studying done there. Through its chaos and open platform, the park turns into a city of its own, and somehow transforms into a ‘safe space’ where you can literally do anything and no one would look twice. Both parks are must-dos for anyone who finds themselves in this sprawling city. And luckily enough, we had Washington Square Park right at a door steps. The Highline radiates NYC history and don’t worry, if you find yourself there on an extremely hot summer day, you will enjoy the abundance of mistifiers and sprinklers that strategically dispersed through the railway. Although New York City’s hyper urbanized landscape can make virtually anyone feel overwhelmed, hidden (or mile-wide) gems in the city surely make up for it.

Kyra studied abroad in New York in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-NewYork

New York | Visiting the UN

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By Kyra Baffo

Our first excursion was a goody.. We got to explore one of the most influential international bodies to ever be created. The United Nations was formed in response to the widespread devastation of the World Wars, and in the hopes of creating a platform for dialogue and international peace and stability between the post-war global powers and original members of the General Assembly. For those who are unfamiliar with the set up, The UN is divided into 6 main organs: The Security Council, the General Assembly, The Secretariat, the Economic and Social Council (ECOSOC), Trusteeship Council, and the International Court of Justice (ICJ).

Most of us are familiar with the Security Council, the most powerful voice within the institution. The Council has 15 members, 5 are permanent (The U.S, China, Russia, France, and the UK) and 10 are non-permanent rotating members. Together, the Security Council is responsible for maintaining international peace and stability, and is given sweeping privileges to employ force in achieving those efforts. However, the permanent members exert absolute control over the agenda and what actions the institution can undertake. If any one of the permanent members casts a veto- the action is effectively dead.

It quickly became apparent that the power of the veto has been an ongoing point of contention and debate both within the UN and among critics who feel like the system prevents meaningful action from ever being taken. One great example of this is in regards to human rights abuses. China, (a country that employs an onslaught of human rights violations- especially the current crisis in Xinjiang), is known to be on the defensive when it comes to addressing human rights abuses, and generally emphasizes the important of national sovereignty. That plays into a larger issue within the institution- the geopolitical divides that constitute the Security Council. China and Russia are the only powers that represent the Eastern, often ‘anti western bloc’, whereas the U.S is paired with France, and the UK. This is the perfect recipe for gridlock, and resistance towards unified action in a variety of politically charged crises- a problem that has received widespread attention from frustrated members of the GA and critics of the UN.

So, what were the main takeaways from our trip to this vast institution? Well for one, the UN is an incredibly important body. The world organization represents 193 nations, and fosters important initiative under bodies like ECOSOC that work towards global standards for human rights, gender equality, health, the environment, and economic development. Forums and conferences held by the organization create a platform for leaders, diplomats, and ngos to discuss the most prevalent issues facing our world. Notwithstanding, however is the lack of enforcement power that the organization actually has. Though many heinous crimes and abuses are enshrined in international law, that carries virtually no ground in our Westphalian world where concepts of state sovereignty take priority.

The most surreal issue facing the institution though, resides in its obsolete structure. As countries that have historically been confined to the Global South continue to see substantial economic growth, so too will their desire to have a greater influence within the organization. Countries like Brazil and India are the most obvious examples. Will the institution undergo structural reforms that will help expand the Security Council? Or, perhaps give more weight to the General Assembly? These were the concerns most widely discussed in our analysis of the UN. How will the world organization progress into a rapidly changing geopolitical arena? One can only speculate.

Kyra studied abroad in New York in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-NewYork

New York | Why New York?

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By Kyra Baffo

Hello! And welcome to my blog. My name is Kyra and I am a Global Studies major who chose to do my travel study program in NYC. I know what you’re thinking… a study abroad program in New York? Does that even count? The simple answer is YES. The NYC Global Studies Travel Study Program is an intensive, 4 week program focused on international governance and policy. New York City is a global hub for international affairs and development, with the UN headquarters, Human Rights Watch, Council on Foreign Relations, UN Foundation, and hundreds of other ngos and agencies all based in this global metropolis.

Throughout the program, we explored the history, methods, and evolving role of the United Nations in a globalized and shifting world. We met with representatives from the UN and experts on procedural methods, legal affairs, foreign diplomacy,  campaigns, and progress towards the current Sustainable Development Goals; we met with journalists on the future of the United States’ role in a rapidly changing global world order; we spoke with leading experts on the growing influence of China on the world stage and addressing the most concerning human rights abuses. Although we were rooted on American soil, this program was wholly international.

I chose New York so that I could learn and experience firsthand the contemporary global issues that shape our world, and meet with leaders actively solving these problems on the world stage. I wanted to be surrounded by students with a passion for international diplomacy and development, and challenge my current understanding of the complex issues that policymakers and advocates address everyday. Our lectures were held in New York City’s vibrant Greenwich Village at NYU’s Law school. Our Professors, Kal Raustiala and Lara Stemple, UCLA Law Professors and experts in international law and health and human rights, guided us through topics ranging from international law, human rights, HIV/AIDS and public health, sex trafficking, and the future of the UN system. My decision to study in New York was not one that I chose lightly. As I will show you in my post-travel blog, NYC is not only the center of all things international, but also happens to be an incredibly diverse and exuberant city with unlimited things to do. The city has fantastic museums, a vibrant nightlife, delicious foods, cultural centers, and historic sites.

I hope that reading my blog will not only inspire you to embark on a travel study experience of your own, but will encourage you to see the value and importance of this experience in your academic journey. UCLA is a great place to be. We have fantastic resources on campus and are surrounded by some of the most intelligent students and faculty at any American university. Yet, my education at UCLA was dramatically improved by my experience in New York this summer. In part because I truly became a global citizen, and got to experience and interact with many of the actors I had only learned about in my Global Studies courses. And because the program exposed me to a variety of potential career options and paths I had not previously considered. Exploring the UN allowed me to envision whether I would truly want to pursue a career there. Meeting with journalists and academics who specialize in UN affairs and foreign policy exposed me to opportunities in foreign relations that do not involve traditional notions of government bureaucrats and diplomacy. I hope you enjoy reading about my journey in NYC, and are inspired to pursue your own travel study while you have the opportunity!

Kyra studied abroad in New York in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-NewYork

France | Visiting the Immigration Museum

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By Jason Vu

A major theme discussed throughout our program was the issue of immigration in France. While we may often think of France as being a homogenous state, the reality is that France is incredibly diverse! To learn more about the country’s diverse population, our class went on an excursion to the “Cite nationale de l’histoire de l’immigration” (National Museum of Immigration History) at Palais de la Porte Dorée.

Entrance to the Cite nationale de l’histoire de l’immigration

 

Founded in April 2007, this mueum tells the story of how people from around the world established communities in France and the history behind their migration. This site was especially interesting for me because there was no other place in Paris that talked about immigration. Plenty of museums were about Asian and African history, but only this one talked about how these populations ended up in France.

 

Our class met up in the afternoon and began our visit with a brief lecture by Prof. Behdad. Speaking on the history of the museum, Prof. Behdad encouraged us to focus on key exhibits that caught our interest and note them for our post-visit discussion. With only a limited amount of time, we quickly made our way to begin the visit.

Prof. Behdad gives an introductory lecture on the Museum before we explore.

 

The first exhibit introduced us to France’s long history of cultural encounter and colonization with other parts of the world. On the way to the main exhibits, I noticed a mural depicting some of these relations through trade with what looked like Vietnames merchants. This caught my attention since I could see a part of my own heritage intersecting with the reality of French history. In some ways, this museum would show me a little more about my own identity as well.

Part of the Forum Frescoes depicting colonial interactions between France and Vietnam.

 

While exploring, I was struck by one part of the museum titled “Diversity”. The exhibit showcased all kinds of cultural objects that looked like they were from all over the world. In reality, however, these items came from local communities around Paris. Featured items included Japanese masks, red lanterns, and African statues, all of which could be found around the streets of Paris, including in Chinatown.

A small portion of the “Diversity” exhibit.

 

The last part of the exhibits I could make it to was a temporary exhibition titled “Paris-London: Music Migrations”. The theme of the exhibition was not only how music had been changed in recent decades due to immigration, but also how that music was used to convey political messages as well. Influential songs were played through headphones alongside videos of the protests where they were performed. At the top of the exhibit were banners that said “HATE RACISM LOVE MUSIC”. These sights really caught my attention and brought to mind the Civil Rights Movement in the US. Far from being a solely American phenomena, this exhibit showed me that the fight for equity and justice was something truly global, making it very important to my studies in the program.

Temporary exhibition titled “Paris-London: Music Migrations”.

We concluded our visit with a discussion facilitated by our TA Mariam. It was great listening to everyone share what they thought was interesting about the Museum and getting responses to my own observations. If you’re ever in Paris, I’d highly recommend going to this museum! It may be a little out of the way, but there truly is no place like it in the entire city.

Jason studied abroad in France in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-France/

France | Jardin d’Agronomie Tropicale

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By Jason Vu

 

On the outskirts of Paris to the east of the Bois de Vincennes lies the Jardin d’Agronomie Tropicale (“Garden of Tropical Agriculture”), a historic park dating back to the early 20th century. Rather than the traditional fountains and marble sculptures of Paris’s many other gardens, however, this garden featured Asian and African cultural pieces such as shrines and gateways. It’s not often talked about as a place to visit in the city, but that only made me more determined to go and check it out.

A Chinese gateway greets visitors to the park.

 

Since classes for my program began late in the afternoon, I decided to go on an adventure on my own to learn more about this hidden garden. Taking the metro there, I eventually arrived in Nogent-sur-Marne, the eastern suburb of Paris where the garden was located. After a brief walk from the metro station, I arrived at the garden and was greeted by a large Chinese gateway.

 

Coming from a large Asian community in California, the gateway reminded me of many others I had seen back home, but this gateway in Paris was different. Rather than the bright red of traditional gateways, this one seemed faded and worn over time. It gave me the sense that this gateway, as well as the park, was more of a historical site than a place in active use today. The overgrown bushes and lack of many visitors reinforced my assumption.

Courtyard with ceremonial incense burner enclosed by Asian-style wall

 

Wandering the garden, I soon found panels that helped document the history of the park, albeit only in French. Using my limited reading knowledge in French, I was able to make out that the park was originally the site of France’s 1907 colonial exhibition. The cultural pieces that were spread across the park were originally taken from different parts of the French empire to showcase the “glory of France”. After the exhibition, the park eventually fell into decline with a lack of upkeep until 2006 when the city of Paris reopened the park.

Maison Cochinchinoise, dedicated to Indochinese soldiers who fought for France.

 

Continuing through the park, I eventually found myself in front of a small temple-like structure that I later learned was dedicated to Indochinese soldiers who died in battle for France. The monument was small but once again, I was reminded of temples back home that were dedicated to deceased relatives and ancestors. I decided to rest near this shrine for a little while before continuing on my way.

The Indochina Pavillion

 

The last place I had a chance to stop at in the garden was a museum-like structure with the word “Indochine” at the very top. Signs nearby said that the building was originally an indoor exhibition of objects from around the Indochina region. Although the pavillion was now abandoned, I wandered around for a while before it was eventually time for me to head to class.

 

As I made my way back to the metro station, I continued to think about the old garden. Most tourist spots in Paris are often crowded and busy, but this place was special because of how calm and peaceful it was. Perhaps its location or its lack of notoriety keeps it so quiet, but in the midst of the busy city, it’s always nice to have a place to escape to for just a while.

Jason studied abroad in France in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-France/

France | Chocolate and Cheese Tour

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By Jason Vu

What’s one way of studying globalization in Paris? Why not a tour of some of the best chocolate and cheese shops in town?

 

After our first week of classes, Prof. Behdad announced that he would be leading an optional excursion on Saturday to local cheese and chocolate shops in Paris. At each store, we would have the chance to sample products (all covered by our program too!) and speak to a few of the workers.

Prof. Behdad gives an introductory lecture before we begin our tour

 

Before we began our cheese and chocolate tasting, however, Prof. Behdad made sure that we would learn something from this experience by starting our excursion with a lecture on chocolate’s relationship to globalization. In a short amount of time, Prof. Behdad discussed the history of chocolate as we know it and its relationship to colonization and technological advancement. Far from pure entertainment, our trip was meant to give us a direct and intentional experience of globalization as it was shaped by historical interactions. WIth an added layer of background, we were finally ready to head out to our first Parisian chocolatier.

 

After getting off the metro in the historic district of Paris known as Le Marais, we walked a bit through some old, windy roads to our first stop: Edwart Chocolatier. At the shop, we were greeted by the friendly owner who proceeded to add to what we learned from Prof. Behdad with a brief presentation of his own.

Storefront of Edwart Chocolatier, our first stop!

 

Once he finished his talk, we moved on to the tasting portion of our program. Rather than having us all sample the same chocolates, the owner decided to spice things up by choosing our individual samples based on how we each answered his questions. For example, he would ask where we were from, our preference for milk or dark chocolate, and whether or not we were adventurous. Based off my answers, I got a piece of chocolate that includes hints of mustard and wasabi, making it slightly spicy! I was surprised by the combination, but it was tasty all the same. After buying some chocolate to bring home, we headed out to our next chocolatier, Pierre Hermé.

Pierre Hermé’s ice cream display

 

Unlike Edwart Chocolatier, Pierre Hermé was much larger and had a variety of other sweets other than chocolate like ice cream, macarons, and other pastries. Our focus here, though, was trying the chocolates made in-house by their workers. Since our group was so large, we couldn’t sample the chocolates inside, so instead, Prof. Behdad picked up our order of chocolates and we sampled outside. The chocolates from this store tasted much more like traditional chocolate with the exception of some samples that had hints of fruits and nuts added in as well. Once we finished our samples at Pierre Hermé, we went to one other chocolate shop before heading to a fromagerie or “cheese shop”.

Some cheeses on display at the local Fromagerie

 

The fromagerie we were headed to was fortunately within walking distance of our last chocolate shop, and it wasn’t long before we arrived. As a big fan of cheese, I was overjoyed by the variety of cheeses in front of me. Brie, Gorgonzola, Camambert— these were all cheeses I was super excited to sample. While not as related to globalization as chocolate, cheese is an essential part of French culture that is a must on any trip.

Cheese tasting time!

Prof. Behdad picked up our plate of cheeses and within minutes, we found a cozy park to sit in and began sampling our vast assortment with some complimentary bread. Every kind of cheese we had was different from the others and tasty in its own way. By the end of our small meal, I was stuffed and happy. The cheese tasting marked the end of our tour and was my signal to take a long food nap!

Jason studied abroad in France in Summer 2019. https://ieo.ucla.edu/travelstudy/GlobalStudies-France/